-
My Inaugural Still Construction
Hey everyone, had some down time today so decided to start my build. One of the problems I think I have, especially when undertaking a new hobby is overestimating my skills and underestimating my lack of knowledge. Im not really basing this off of any concrete plans, so not entirely sure if the condenser will knock everything down, or if the column is big enough etc etc.Time for some numbers:Liebig condenser- 15mm inner pipe- 20mm outer pipe- copper wire coil inside the sheath- 750mm of sheathed length- 1220mm overall length- connects with a 2 inch ferruleColumn- 50mm copper pipe- connects with 2 x 2 inch ferrule- 1100mm overall lengthMy first time soldering copper pipe, was much more challenging than anticipated, and my ferrules being loose probably didnt help. Dont pay too much attention to all the extra solder lmao. After cooled the pieces were washed and lightly polished with steel wool.Need to work out what the plan is for my reflux condenser. A shotgun seems to be a popular choice, however I am unsure about wether to build or buy. Building is my preferred choice, but im not sure my current skill level is up to it. I’ve also been toying with a few novel ideas for my own versions of reflux condensers.Looking forward to the feedback, I’ll be updating this thread as my build progresses.
-
27 Replies
-
Hey well done on building, that’s awesome.Have a look at how your Liebig is going to be orientated and possible pooling issues, depending on the angle it’s set at.Just got to decide what type of still you want and how you’ll build your head” you can pick your nose and you can pick your friends; but you can’t always wipe your friends off on your saddle” sage advice from Kinky Friedman
-
Thanks Sporacle.The plan is to have it oriented vertically or at a slight angle, so vapor travelling down. I’m still very new to this, but that should prevent any possibility of pooling.
-
Hey patch .Those ferrules look interesting . They look like a 2” SS ferule that had been TIG welded to a copper coupling .But that’s where I think the issue is . The coupling looks like it’s designed to fit some USA or UK copper pipe ….. not Aussie stuff . …. And that is why you have such a bad ass gap .USA and UK is 2” ID . So add the thickness of the copper and you end up with a random “nominal” OD ….. depending on whether its fat ass High Pressure or thin Drain, waste gauge . Aussie Copper pipe is 2” OD …. Regardless of gauge ….. so is a 2” SS ferrule . I can see the attraction of buying that fitting so you only have to do a copper to copper solder job , but alas it’s not the right fit . OK So in Aussie , you would be better off going to “Tradelink “… ( Reeces are fleesers ) and buying a “2” copper capillary coupling “ …. LOL , say that with meaning and they will think you are a real plumber . A 2” copper coupling will join a 2” ferrule to Aussie 2” copper perfectly
- You have some serious gaps . Iff’n you have managed to solder them and they are all sealed well no problem . If there is a leak , well , you might have to do a rework .Solder is good at filling a small gap … read , yo to maybe 0.5mm but beyond that , it is more arse than class . All is not lost . Gap filling techniques are as simple as spiral wrapping copper wire to fill the gap to using a half of an Aussie 2” coupler to fill the gap .My recommended goto .wiki/index.ph … ion_Theory
-
Looks like you’re having fun, fair play for building your own You can use copper or ss pipe twisted up as a RC if you’re not sure about a shottyDon’t be a dick
-
Off to a fantastic start on the build Patch!I do like to see people have a good go at building their own setup, it doesn’t have to be pretty to make a top class spirit, and you can be even more proud when you put the beast together yourself!Liebig looks fine to me, and it should knock down everything easily with that size of column. As long as it will cope with full power on strip runs, you’re good.What type of reflux still head are you planning?Make Booze, not War!
-
I’m going to go against the floor and say that you should make your liebig longer. Mine is about the same diameter (14mm ID) and has about 900mm cooled (maybe a little more depending on the flow rate and eddy currents in the tees!). I max out at about 3kW. I can push 3.5kW but the distillate starts coming out warm and I feeling I’m running with no safety margin at all.Personally I would aim for at least a 1m core, ideally closer to 1.5m or push the diameter up a bit. You can have a play with the condenser calculator on the parent site. The numbers themselves may not be bang on, but it’ll let you see what relative effect your changes have.”I have a potstill that smears like a fresh plowed coon on the highway” – JimboA little spoon feeding *For New & Novice Distillers
-
Out of interest, what is the diameter difference between the vapour tube and the water jacket on yours?Make Booze, not War!
-
If I may (mind you, I’m far from a master) … it looks like you need more heat and maybe more flux. The solder on your wire to pipe connection sort of bunches up, rather than flows out to the pipe. It’s kind of a ball stuck to the pipe. Same on the ferrules, but I understand you were dealing with some gap issues.Personally, I like liquid acid flux and don’t hold back. I get it on my fingers, workbench, everywhere. Then bring your heat in from away from where you want it to flow. On that wire/pipe interface, I’d have started an inch or two away from the wire and worked my way in. Being careful not to burn the flux off (maybe it’s not an issue with paste flux).Also, if you have a disparity of sizes (like the pipe vs wire), start your heat from the bigger piece first.In the end, if it doesn’t leak … it works. Nice job.
-
Out of interest, what is the diameter difference between the vapour tube and the water jacket on yours?Too big… The jacket is 28/26 and the inner is 16/14. Simply because that’s what I had to work with when I built my still. I’ve had the parts on hand for building a shotgun condenser for about 18 months now but I can’t seem to find the time to start it. And recently I did wonder about unsweating the liebig and swapping the core for a 22/20 to improve the performance. But the power limitation of 3kW, is annoying when I’m actually doing stripping runs, but is soon forgotten, and I tend to do stripping runs in an evening so I don’t gain a great deal by pushing the speed a little.”I have a potstill that smears like a fresh plowed coon on the highway” – JimboA little spoon feeding *For New & Novice Distillers
-
I thought you might say that NS. The difference in efficiency when you make the jacket as tight as possible, is a big deal.If you changed your vape tube for 22mm you’d see a huge jump in knockdown power. If you have the copper I wouldn’t hesitate.You will be wasting so much less water.Make Booze, not War!
-
I know. But my water is recirculated from an IBC so no losses there. The only problem is I can’t run it so that the coolant out is hot, which puts paid to my simple preheater idea using my wort cooler plumbed in series with the liebig! “I have a potstill that smears like a fresh plowed coon on the highway” – JimboA little spoon feeding *For New & Novice Distillers
-
This is a lot to respond to, hopefully I get everything! Thanks for the info, the interesting thing is they are bought from an aussie supplier who makes them in house! I definitely think that what you described is the case however. Ive looked into the ferrule and coupler method of attack but was a bit spooked by soldering the copper coupler to the ss ferrule. Im currently using aquasafe solders (the one sold in rolls) and bakers fluid as flux. If the current build doesnt work then ill have a crack at the ss connection.Not entirely certain, I’ve intentionally left myself open with a bunch of options, I do have a ss tee piece so that I could do a CCVM, but I think im liking the idea of a shotgun more and more.I think im going to decide if I need to up the liebig after the water run, if it can knock down the water vapour I think I should be sweet? If it cant do that then its back to the drawing board.I think youre probably right. However re the balling up thats because all of these connections were soldered horizontally in a vice, and the solder tended to flow to the “bottom” of the joint. Heres hoping she doesnt leakHopefully this doesnt ping too many people! Thanks for the good discussions lads.
-
Just remember the boiling point of water as compared to the shifting ethanol point, the Liebig is going to be working extra hard to knock down steam” you can pick your nose and you can pick your friends; but you can’t always wipe your friends off on your saddle” sage advice from Kinky Friedman
-
Yep! Thats the hope, if it handles the steam, then I shouldnt have to worry about the ethanol vapour.
-
I know. But my water is recirculated from an IBC so no losses there. The only problem is I can’t run it so that the coolant out is hot, which puts paid to my simple preheater idea using my wort cooler plumbed in series with the liebig! Oh if you can’t run the coolant hot at the exit, that is another 2 reasons to change it! As you say, to run a pre heater of sorts. (I do exactly what you’re describing, with a wort chiller inline)And also, I start all of my ferments off using the hot exit water to soften grain/melt sugar etc. In the fermenter. It’s just a no brainer and saves so much time and energy when you are running anyway.Sorry for going off topic a little Patch.Make Booze, not War!
-
“Not entirely certain, I’ve intentionally left myself open with a bunch of options, I do have a ss tee piece so that I could do a CCVM, but I think im liking the idea of a shotgun more and more.”What is it you want to make, neutral? Do as much research as you can here about the differences between reflux heads before you decide. There is a great post by one of the guys that explains it but I have no idea what it was titled, anyone remember?Make Booze, not War!
-
Thanks MooseMan, I think neutrals are going to be the go, however I also want the ability to make macerated gins, but due to the modular (hopefully) design I should be sweet! That post title would be awesome, I have a feeling I’ve read it? From memory it covers all the management styles for heads.
-
Depending on how you heat there can be a scaling problem with gins. You need to make a decent batch of neutral so want a boiler of 30-50 litres charged with low wines. But when you’re playing with batches of gin, 1 litre charges or smaller are the best strategy as they don’t commit you to large quantities of what might be quite undrinkable.I made a lid for our largest saucepan (5 litre) which has a triclamp fitting onto which I can fit my still head. That way it’s just the boiler that changes.”I have a potstill that smears like a fresh plowed coon on the highway” – JimboA little spoon feeding *For New & Novice Distillers
-
The Aquasafe from Bunnings is what I use too . Although I’m using “Duzall” flux atm , I’ve used Bakers for SS to copper . It’s good stuff and will get the job done . I’m curious where you bought those Ferrules in Aussie.Not seen them before .Where they would be really useful is going on 90° bends and Tees that have expanded sockets . I wonder if they sell a different version that is meant to solder straight to Aussie 2” pipe?My recommended goto .wiki/index.ph … ion_Theory
-
The plan is to have multiple boilers, of different size, one for stripping, then one for runs with infusions.Im not sure if sharing links to storefronts is frowned upon on the board, but happy to dm you? Theyre queensland based and im sydney-ish, and the package arrived next day!
-
Links are OK . … unless they are to vendors that have shat on members and are not welcome here . But I don’t believe there are any from Aus in our “do not mention “list .Can’t complain about the service …. Next day interstate delivery , thats good .My recommended goto .wiki/index.ph … ion_Theory
-
Regarding a reflux condenser. While shot guns can work on LM and VMs , they have to be very long and have as many tubes in them as you can possably squeeze , but not smaller than about 1/2” tubes . Best to make a coil if you can . It’s not that difficult . The very first thing I ever made was my RC coil . Looked at several of the “how to” topics in here and away I went . I think from memory , I bought a 5 metre length if annealed 1/4” copper from dear I say “Reeces plumbing “ .Never filled with Salt or sand or water etc and it just worked out fine . .My recommended goto .wiki/index.ph … ion_Theory
-
Here is a link to the https://5stardistilling.com/product/2-s … pper-pipe/.
-
Patch, if you’ve got any more of those ferrules to fit and they are oversized, you can anneal the end of your copper pipe and then carefully place it over the end of a solid piece of inch or similar steel pipe. Place a start mark and gently rotate and tap with a hammer to thin the material were it sockets into the ferrule.The thinning will expand the copper diameter slightly.” you can pick your nose and you can pick your friends; but you can’t always wipe your friends off on your saddle” sage advice from Kinky Friedman
-
The plan is to have multiple boilers, of different size, one for stripping, then one for runs with infusions.Most (Probably all) of us who are interested in gin have made a small still to run lots of experimental batches before committing a huge boiler charge to a gin that may not be any good as NS says.I too built one from a small stock pot that I can run on my kitchen hob, intending to build another, bigger, dedicated gin still (I already have all the parts and the big pot for a boiler) once I had the recipe dialled in.Well, I’m still using my small gin still and have no intention to go any bigger, it’s so nice to be able to make 2-4 bottles each time with a slight tweak, then do it all again next time with a different botanical.Make Booze, not War!
-
Do you use the same condenser etc? My plan is to get 5l pot and hack the lid to allow for the attachment of my head with condenser.
-
No I built a bit of a freak as I didn’t want to run water cooling, but a short riser and a little baby Liebig is all you need off the pot. Search for “Stock pot gin still” on here and there’s plenty of builds for inspiration.Make Booze, not War!
Log in to reply.
English 
Spanish 
German 
French 
Russian